When it comes to mountaineering and trekking in the snow-capped mountains, one essential tool that you cannot afford to miss is an ice axe. It is a versatile tool that serves multiple purposes such as providing support while climbing, stopping a fall, and even acting as a walking stick. But when should you take an ice axe? Is it necessary for every mountain trek? In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the intricacies of when to take an ice axe and what are the different scenarios where it is necessary. Whether you are a seasoned mountaineer or a beginner, this guide will help you understand the nuances of using an ice axe and make informed decisions about when to use it. So, let’s dive in and explore the world of ice axes!
Factors to Consider When Choosing an Ice Axe
Your Experience Level
When choosing an ice axe, your experience level is a crucial factor to consider. Your experience level will determine the type of ice axe that is suitable for you.
Beginner, Intermediate, or Expert
As a beginner, you will need an ice axe that is easy to use and provides good support. An ice axe with a longer shaft and a wider pick will be suitable for you. The pick should be sharp to allow you to penetrate the ice easily. The spike of the ice axe should also be strong enough to support your weight.
For intermediate climbers, an ice axe with a shorter shaft and a more aggressive pick is suitable. The pick should be sharper and more curved than that of a beginner’s ice axe. The spike should also be stronger to support the climber’s weight.
Expert climbers require an ice axe that is lightweight and has a very aggressive pick. The pick should be very sharp and curved to allow the climber to make efficient steps in the ice. The spike should also be very strong to support the climber’s weight.
How it Affects Your Choice of Ice Axe
Your experience level will significantly affect your choice of ice axe. A beginner will require an ice axe that is easy to use and provides good support. An intermediate climber will require an ice axe that is more aggressive than that of a beginner’s ice axe. An expert climber will require an ice axe that is lightweight and has a very aggressive pick. It is essential to choose the right ice axe based on your experience level to ensure your safety while climbing.
The Type of Terrain You’ll Be On
Steep Snow, Ice, or Mixed Climbs
When deciding whether or not to bring an ice axe on a climb, the type of terrain you‘ll be on is a crucial factor to consider. Climbs that involve steep snow, ice, or mixed terrain require different techniques and equipment, and therefore, different types of ice axes.
- Steep Snow Climbs: On steep snow climbs, the primary concern is avalanches. In such situations, a heavy, robust ice axe with a long shaft is recommended. The pick should be sharp and strong enough to penetrate hard snow, while the spike should be designed to prevent the axe from sinking too far into the snow. The head should also have a good shape for self-arrest.
- Ice Climbs: For ice climbs, a lightweight, technical ice axe is necessary. These axes are designed for optimum penetration in hard ice and are equipped with sharp picks and spikes. The shaft is usually shorter and thicker, which provides better control and balance.
- Mixed Climbs: Mixed climbs involve both ice and rock. For these climbs, a hybrid ice axe is suitable. This type of axe has a pick that can be used for both ice and rock, and a spike for walking on snow. The shaft should be long enough to provide support in icy conditions, but short enough to make it easy to swing the axe for mixed climbing.
It’s essential to choose the right ice axe for the type of terrain you‘ll be on, as it can make a significant difference in your safety and climbing experience.
The Conditions You’ll Be Facing
Cold Temperatures, Wind, and Storms
When selecting an ice axe, it is crucial to consider the conditions you will be facing during your climb. Cold temperatures, wind, and storms are all factors that can affect your choice of ice axe.
Cold Temperatures
Cold temperatures can make the ice more brittle and prone to fracturing. This means that you will need an ice axe with a more flexible shaft and a wider pick to prevent the ice from breaking. Additionally, you may want to consider an ice axe with a longer handle to provide more leverage when self-arresting.
Wind
Wind can significantly impact your climb, making it more challenging to maintain your balance and control. An ice axe with a more curved shaft and a larger head can provide more stability in windy conditions. Additionally, a pick that is angled towards the blade can help to anchor the ice axe more securely in the ice.
Storms
Storms can bring heavy snowfall, rain, and lightning, which can all pose significant risks to your safety. An ice axe with a more robust construction and a longer handle can provide more stability in these conditions. Additionally, an ice axe with a larger head and a more curved shaft can help to prevent the ice axe from getting buried in deep snow.
In summary, when choosing an ice axe, it is essential to consider the conditions you will be facing. Cold temperatures, wind, and storms can all affect your choice of ice axe, and selecting the right one can help to ensure your safety and success on the climb.
The Length and Difficulty of Your Climb
Short, Technical Climbs or Long, Multi-Day Expeditions
When it comes to choosing an ice axe, the length and difficulty of your climb is a crucial factor to consider. Here’s how it affects your choice of ice axe:
- Short, Technical Climbs: For short, technical climbs, you’ll want an ice axe that’s lightweight and easy to handle. This type of climb typically involves steep terrain and challenging ice and snow conditions, so you’ll need an ice axe that can provide good support and traction. A lightweight ice axe with a short shaft and a curved pick is ideal for this type of climb.
- Long, Multi-Day Expeditions: For long, multi-day expeditions, you’ll need an ice axe that’s durable and can withstand the rigors of extended use. This type of climb typically involves long days of climbing and camping in remote locations, so you’ll need an ice axe that can handle heavy use and provide good support in a variety of conditions. A heavy-duty ice axe with a longer shaft and a straight pick is ideal for this type of climb.
It’s important to choose an ice axe that’s appropriate for the length and difficulty of your climb. An ice axe that’s too lightweight or too heavy, or one that’s not designed for the type of terrain you‘ll be climbing, can lead to a lack of support and traction, which can be dangerous.
Ice Axe Features to Look For
Adjustable Pick Length
Pros and Cons
- Pros:
- Adjustable pick length allows for greater versatility and customization to different ice climbing conditions.
- Allows for a single tool to be used in a wider range of climbing situations.
- Reduces the need for multiple tools, making the climber’s pack lighter.
- Cons:
- Adjusting the pick length during a climb can be time-consuming and may cause a delay in the climbing process.
- The adjustment mechanism may be prone to failure if not properly maintained.
- Some climbers may find it difficult to adjust the pick length to their liking.
When to Use it
- General Guideline:
- When climbing on steep or overhanging ice, where the pick length needs to be adjusted for optimal control and balance.
- When climbing in mixed terrain, where the pick length needs to be adjusted for optimal grip on both ice and rock.
- When climbing in areas with varying ice conditions, where the pick length needs to be adjusted for optimal performance.
- Situational Examples:
- When climbing in a area with a lot of horizontal or diagonal ice, where a longer pick length is needed for better leverage and control.
- When climbing in a area with a lot of vertical ice, where a shorter pick length is needed for better balance and maneuverability.
- When climbing in a area with a mix of ice and rock, where a shorter pick length is needed for better grip on rock and a longer pick length is needed for better grip on ice.
Curved or Straight Shaft
When choosing an ice axe, one of the most important decisions to make is whether to go with a curved or straight shaft. Both types of shafts have their own unique advantages and disadvantages, and understanding these differences can help you determine which type of shaft is best suited for your needs.
- Curved Shaft:
- Pros:
- Provides better support and stability in steep and icy terrain
- Easier to self-arrest with
- Reduces the risk of sliding downhill
- Cons:
- Can be more difficult to swing and use for hammering
- Less versatile for other activities such as climbing
- Pros:
-
Straight Shaft:
– Lightweight and easy to swing
– Versatile for other activities such as climbing
– Less support and stability in steep and icy terrain
– More difficult to self-arrest with
– Greater risk of sliding downhill -
Curved shaft: Recommended for more experienced ice climbers who frequently encounter steep and icy terrain. It provides better support and stability, and is easier to self-arrest with.
- Straight shaft: Recommended for beginner ice climbers or those who will be using their ice axe for other activities such as climbing. It is lightweight and easy to swing, and more versatile for other activities.
Finger and Toe Rests
+ Finger and toe rests provide added grip security, allowing for greater control when using an ice axe in technical terrain.
+ They help to prevent accidental slips and falls by keeping the hands and feet in a more secure position.
+ They also provide a place to rest the hands and feet during periods of prolonged use, reducing fatigue and increasing comfort.
+ Finger and toe rests can be bulky and may get in the way when the ice axe is being used for other purposes, such as self-arrest or ice climbing.
+ They can also be difficult to use properly, and may require some practice to get used to.
Finger and toe rests are most useful in technical terrain where the ice axe is being used for balance and support, such as in steep snow or ice climbing. They are also useful in prolonged use situations, such as when making long descents or during multi-day expeditions.
In general, if you are using an ice axe in any situation where you need added control and grip security, finger and toe rests can be a valuable addition to your ice axe. However, it is important to practice using them properly and to ensure that they do not interfere with other uses of the ice axe.
Ice Axe vs. Ice Axe Hammer
When it comes to choosing between an ice axe and an ice axe hammer, there are several factors to consider. Both tools have their own unique features and advantages, which will be discussed in this section.
Ice Axe
An ice axe is a versatile tool that can be used for a variety of mountaineering activities, including ice climbing, ski touring, and snow trekking. The primary purpose of an ice axe is to provide support and stability while walking on snow and ice.
Pros:
- Lightweight and easy to carry
- Versatile tool for a variety of mountaineering activities
- Provides support and stability while walking on snow and ice
Cons:
- Not designed for heavy duty chopping or hammering
- May not provide enough leverage for some tasks
Ice Axe Hammer
An ice axe hammer, on the other hand, is specifically designed for chopping and hammering tasks. It has a more curved pick and a longer handle, which makes it better suited for breaking through ice and snow.
- Designed for heavy duty chopping and hammering tasks
- Provides more leverage for chopping and hammering
-
Better suited for breaking through ice and snow
-
Heavier and more cumbersome than an ice axe
- Not as versatile for other mountaineering activities
When deciding whether to use an ice axe or an ice axe hammer, it is important to consider the specific task at hand. If you are primarily engaging in activities such as ice climbing or ski touring, an ice axe may be the better choice. However, if you are faced with tasks that require heavy duty chopping or hammering, an ice axe hammer may be more appropriate.
Ultimately, the decision between an ice axe and an ice axe hammer will depend on the specific needs of the individual and the task at hand. It is important to choose the tool that best suits the conditions and the activities you will be engaging in.
Choosing the Right Ice Axe for Your Needs
Step 1: Identify Your Experience Level
When choosing the right ice axe for your needs, the first step is to identify your experience level. This will help you determine the appropriate type and size of ice axe for your climbing or mountaineering endeavors.
As a beginner, you may want to start with a general-purpose ice axe that is lightweight and easy to handle. These ice axes are typically designed for beginners and offer a good balance of weight and strength.
For intermediate climbers, a more specialized ice axe may be required. These ice axes are typically heavier and stronger than beginner ice axes, and are designed for more technical climbs.
Expert climbers will require the strongest and most technically advanced ice axes. These ice axes are designed for extreme conditions and can withstand the demands of the most challenging climbs.
Recommended Ice Axes for Each Level
Here are some recommended ice axes for each experience level:
- Beginner: Black Diamond Vaporlight, Grivel Trust, or Petzl Spirit
- Intermediate: Black Diamond Cobra, Grivel Air Tech, or Petzl Summit
- Expert: Black Diamond Cobra, Grivel G12, or Petzl Nomic
It’s important to note that these are just general recommendations, and the best ice axe for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences. When choosing an ice axe, consider factors such as weight, length, and type of pick, as well as the brand’s reputation for quality and durability.
Step 2: Determine the Type of Terrain You’ll Be On
- Steep snow climbs are characterized by a high degree of slope angle and limited access to ice tools.
- In such terrain, it is important to use an ice axe that has a large and curved head, as well as a good adhesion point.
- Recommended ice axes for steep snow climbs include the Black Diamond Flexitaran and the Grivel G12.
- For ice climbs, the terrain is primarily vertical or near-vertical ice, and the main focus is on ice tools.
- In such terrain, it is important to use an ice axe that has a sharp and aggressive pick, as well as a good adhesion point.
- Recommended ice axes for ice climbs include the Black Diamond Neve and the Grivel Ice Pilot V.
- Mixed climbs are a combination of both snow and ice terrain, and the main focus is on both ice tools and the ability to swing the axe.
- In such terrain, it is important to use an ice axe that has a good balance between a sharp pick and a good adhesion point.
- Recommended ice axes for mixed climbs include the Black Diamond Guide and the Grivel G20.
Step 3: Consider the Conditions You’ll Be Facing
When choosing an ice axe, it’s important to consider the conditions you’ll be facing. This includes factors such as temperature, wind, and storms. Each of these factors can impact the type of ice axe you should bring with you.
- Cold Temperatures: If you’ll be climbing in cold temperatures, you’ll want an ice axe with a long handle and a pick that is suitable for cutting into hard ice. The axe should also have a comfortable grip to prevent your hands from getting too cold.
- Wind: If you’ll be climbing in windy conditions, you’ll want an ice axe with a wide pick and a long handle to provide more stability. The axe should also have a spike or some other feature to help you anchor yourself to the ice in case of a sudden gust of wind.
- Storms: If you’ll be climbing in stormy conditions, you’ll want an ice axe that is durable and can withstand strong winds and heavy snowfall. The axe should also have a large head and a sturdy shaft to provide more stability in challenging conditions.
Recommended Ice Axes for Each Set of Conditions
- Cold Temperatures: Black Diamond Guide Lite, Grivel G12, and Petzl Nomic
- Wind: Grivel G20, Black Diamond Pilot, and Petzl Quark
- Storms: Black Diamond Neve, Grivel G32, and Petzl Ultimate
It’s important to note that these are just a few examples of ice axes that are suitable for each set of conditions. There are many other options available, and the best ice axe for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences.
In general, it’s a good idea to bring an ice axe that is versatile and can be used in a variety of conditions. This will ensure that you are prepared for any situation that may arise during your climb.
Step 4: Determine the Length and Difficulty of Your Climb
When choosing an ice axe, it is crucial to consider the length and difficulty of your climb. Different types of climbs require different ice axe lengths and features.
For short, technical climbs, a compact and lightweight ice axe is recommended. These ice axes are typically shorter in length and have a smaller head, making them easier to handle and maneuver in technical terrain.
On the other hand, for long, multi-day expeditions, a longer and more robust ice axe is recommended. These ice axes are designed to provide more support and security on longer and more challenging climbs. They usually have larger heads and more robust shafts, making them more durable and suitable for extended use.
Recommended Ice Axes for Each Type of Climb
- For short, technical climbs, compact ice axes with a shorter shaft and smaller head, such as the Black Diamond “Coral” or the Grivel “Piolet” are suitable choices.
- For long, multi-day expeditions, larger and more robust ice axes with longer shafts and larger heads, such as the Black Diamond “Neptune” or the Grivel “Viriat” are recommended.
It is essential to choose the right ice axe for your climb to ensure both safety and efficiency. Determining the length and difficulty of your climb is a crucial factor in selecting the appropriate ice axe for your needs.
Step 6: Put it All Together
Choosing the Right Ice Axe for Your Needs
Choosing the right ice axe for your needs is a crucial step in ensuring your safety and comfort during ice climbing. There are several factors to consider when selecting an ice axe, including the type of ice climbing you will be doing, the length and weight of the axe, the type of pick and spike, and the overall durability and quality of the axe.
To decide which ice axe is right for you, it is important to consider the following:
- The type of ice climbing you will be doing: Different types of ice climbing require different types of ice axes. For example, a different type of ice axe is needed for alpine ice climbing compared to waterfall ice climbing.
- The length and weight of the axe: The length and weight of the ice axe will depend on the type of climbing you will be doing. For example, a shorter and lighter axe is needed for technical ice climbing, while a longer and heavier axe is needed for steep ice climbing.
- The type of pick and spike: The type of pick and spike on the ice axe will also depend on the type of climbing you will be doing. For example, a straight pick is needed for technical ice climbing, while a curved pick is needed for waterfall ice climbing.
- The overall durability and quality of the axe: The durability and quality of the ice axe is also an important factor to consider. You want an ice axe that is made from high-quality materials and that can withstand the demands of ice climbing.
By considering these factors, you can choose the right ice axe for your needs and ensure your safety and comfort during ice climbing.
FAQs
1. What is an ice axe?
An ice axe is a versatile tool used by mountaineers, climbers, and skiers for various purposes such as providing support while climbing, arresting a fall, and providing balance on steep and icy terrain. It has a sharp pick at one end and an adze or hammer on the other end.
2. When should I take an ice axe?
You should take an ice axe when you are engaging in activities that involve steep and icy terrain, such as mountaineering, ice climbing, or ski touring. The ice axe provides additional support and protection while navigating such challenging conditions.
3. How do I choose the right ice axe?
Choosing the right ice axe depends on various factors such as the type of terrain you will be traversing, the length of your trip, and your personal preferences. You should consider factors such as the length, weight, and type of pick, as well as the type of handle and spike.
4. How do I use an ice axe?
Using an ice axe requires proper technique and practice. You should learn how to use it for self-arrest, which is the technique of stopping a fall using the ice axe. You should also learn how to use it for providing support while climbing and for providing balance on steep and icy terrain.
5. What are the risks of not using an ice axe?
Not using an ice axe in appropriate terrain can lead to increased risk of falling and injuries. The ice axe provides an extra layer of protection and support, and not having it can lead to a higher risk of accidents and injuries.
6. Can I use an ice axe for other activities besides mountaineering?
Yes, an ice axe can be used for other activities besides mountaineering, such as ice climbing and ski touring. However, the specific type of ice axe you choose may vary depending on the activity and terrain.
7. How do I maintain my ice axe?
Maintaining your ice axe involves regular cleaning and inspecting for any damage. You should also keep it sharp by periodically sharpening the pick and adze. It is also important to properly store your ice axe when not in use to prevent damage.
