Are you ready to embark on a thrilling adventure in the great outdoors? If so, then you need to familiarize yourself with one of the most essential tools for navigating icy terrain – the ice axe. An ice axe is a versatile tool that serves multiple purposes, from providing support while climbing steep inclines to acting as an anchor when traversing icy ridges. But what exactly is an ice axe, and how does it work? In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the various types of ice axes, their key features, and how to use them safely and effectively. So, whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer or a beginner just starting out, read on to discover the fascinating world of ice axes.
What are Ice Axes?
Definition and Purpose
Ice Axes Explained
Ice axes are specialized tools used by mountaineers, climbers, and skiers for various purposes in alpine environments. These tools have evolved over time to serve different functions, from basic support during ascent to more advanced uses like ice climbing and glacier travel. The primary purpose of an ice axe is to provide stability and support on snow and ice-covered terrain, but it can also be used for self-arrest, anchor building, and various other tasks.
Why Are Ice Axes Used?
Ice axes are essential for alpine activities because they provide several benefits to the user. They offer stability and support during ascent and descent, which is crucial when traversing steep or icy terrain. They also help with balance and maneuverability on slopes, making it easier to navigate challenging conditions. In addition, ice axes can be used for self-arrest, which is a safety technique that helps prevent falls by anchoring the user to the mountain. They can also be used for building anchors, setting up belays, and performing other critical tasks in the mountains.
Types of Ice Axes
Straight Ice Axes
Straight ice axes are the most common type of ice axe and are designed for general mountaineering and snow climbing. They have a straight shaft and a pick that is designed for punching into ice and snow. The shaft is typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber, and the pick is made of steel or titanium. Straight ice axes are ideal for ascending steep ice and snow slopes, and for providing security while walking on snow and ice.
Curved Ice Axes
Curved ice axes are designed for more technical climbing, such as ice climbing and mixed climbing. They have a curved shaft that allows for better placement of the pick in ice and snow, and also provides better support when placing the axe in a crack or crevasse. The pick is usually longer and more aggressively curved than on straight ice axes, and may be bent or hooked for specific climbing techniques. Curved ice axes are also often used for glacier travel and for climbing steep, snow-covered slopes.
Fixed-Pick Ice Axes
Fixed-pick ice axes are similar to straight ice axes, but with a pick that is permanently attached to the shaft. This design allows for a more secure placement in ice and snow, and also provides better protection against accidental drops. Fixed-pick ice axes are often used for ski touring and for general mountaineering in snowy or icy conditions.
Hammer Ice Axes
Hammer ice axes are designed for chopping steps in hard snow and ice, and for building snow and ice structures such as snow bridges and belays. They have a pick that is curved and sharpened on one side, and a hammer head on the other side. The hammer head is used for chopping steps and building snow and ice structures, while the pick is used for balance and support while climbing. Hammer ice axes are often used for ski touring and for climbing steep, snow-covered slopes.
Ice Axes for Climbing
Choosing the Right Ice Axe for Climbing
When it comes to selecting the right ice axe for climbing, there are several factors to consider. Personal preferences play a significant role in determining the best ice axe for an individual climber. Additionally, various factors such as grip type, pick design, head and shaft design must be taken into account to ensure the ice axe is suitable for the climb.
Factoring in Personal Preferences
Personal preferences are crucial when choosing an ice axe for climbing. Climbers have different preferences when it comes to grip, weight, and balance. Some climbers prefer a heavier ice axe that provides more substantial support, while others prefer a lighter ice axe that allows for greater mobility. Climbers must consider their individual preferences and choose an ice axe that best suits their needs.
Factors to Consider
Apart from personal preferences, several factors must be considered when choosing an ice axe for climbing. These factors include:
- Grip type: The grip type of an ice axe is essential, as it determines the climber’s ability to maintain a firm grip on the ice axe during a climb. There are two main types of grip: pistol grip and hooked grip.
- Pick design: The pick design of an ice axe is another crucial factor to consider. The pick design affects the ice axe’s ability to penetrate ice and provide support during a climb.
- Head and shaft design: The head and shaft design of an ice axe are also essential factors to consider. The head and shaft design determine the ice axe’s strength, durability, and overall performance.
Grip Type
The grip type of an ice axe is an essential factor to consider when choosing an ice axe for climbing. There are two main types of grip: pistol grip and hooked grip. The pistol grip is the most common type of grip and is ideal for most climbers. It provides a secure grip on the ice axe and allows for a natural hand position. The hooked grip, on the other hand, is ideal for more advanced climbers who require a more precise grip.
Pick Design
The pick design of an ice axe is another crucial factor to consider when choosing an ice axe for climbing. The pick design affects the ice axe’s ability to penetrate ice and provide support during a climb. Climbers must consider the pick design that best suits their climbing style and the type of terrain they will be climbing.
Head and Shaft Design
The head and shaft design of an ice axe are also essential factors to consider when choosing an ice axe for climbing. The head and shaft design determine the ice axe’s strength, durability, and overall performance. Climbers must consider the head and shaft design that best suits their climbing style and the type of terrain they will be climbing. Additionally, the head and shaft design must be able to withstand the forces of a fall or a sudden impact.
Ice Axes for Glacier Travel
Choosing the Right Ice Axe for Glacier Travel
Selecting the appropriate ice axe for glacier travel is crucial to ensure both safety and efficiency during the journey. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the right ice axe for glacier travel:
Individual preferences play a significant role in selecting the ideal ice axe for glacier travel. For instance, some climbers may prefer a specific grip type or pick design that feels more comfortable in their hand. It is essential to choose an ice axe that not only performs well but also feels comfortable to hold and use.
When selecting an ice axe for glacier travel, consider the following factors:
- Grip Type: The grip type should be comfortable and provide a secure hold, even in challenging conditions. Some ice axes have a flat or neutral grip, while others have a more aggressive or bent grip that may provide better control in steep terrain.
- Pick Design: The pick design should be suitable for the type of glacier travel you will encounter. Some ice axes have a straight pick, while others have a curved or hooked pick that may be better for front-pointing or ice climbing.
- Head and Shaft Design: The head and shaft design should be suitable for the type of glacier travel you will encounter. For example, some ice axes have a more flexible shaft that may be better for front-pointing on steep ice, while others have a stiffer shaft that may be better for plunging into snow. The head of the ice axe should be strong and suitable for the type of terrain you will encounter, with a spike or adze that can be used for self-arrest or for kicking steps in snow.
Overall, selecting the right ice axe for glacier travel requires careful consideration of personal preferences and the specific conditions you will encounter. It is essential to choose an ice axe that is comfortable to hold and use, and that is suitable for the type of terrain you will encounter.
Ice Axe Techniques
Basic Ice Axe Techniques
Proper Grip Technique
When it comes to using an ice axe, proper grip technique is essential for both safety and efficiency. A firm grip on the handle allows for better control and precision when using the pick and spike. To achieve a proper grip, place the palm of your hand on the handle and wrap your fingers around it, ensuring that your thumb is positioned correctly for maximum control. It’s important to note that the grip should be relaxed but firm, as a tense grip can lead to fatigue and loss of control.
Pick Placement Technique
The placement of the pick is a crucial aspect of ice climbing, as it allows the climber to secure themselves to the ice and prevent falls. To properly place the pick, first make sure that the blade is facing in the correct direction, with the pointed end facing up. Then, drive the pick into the ice by applying downward pressure with the palm of your hand, ensuring that the pick is firmly embedded in the ice. When removing the pick, reverse the process by applying upward pressure and gently pulling the pick out of the ice.
Self-Arrest Technique
In the event of a fall while ice climbing, a self-arrest technique using an ice axe can be lifesaving. To properly execute a self-arrest, first ensure that the pick is facing in the correct direction and the blade is facing up. As you fall, swing the axe in front of you and allow the pick to penetrate the ice, creating an anchor point. Then, use the adze end of the axe to dig into the ice and arrest your fall, pulling yourself to a stop. It’s important to practice this technique regularly to ensure that you can execute it properly in the event of an emergency.
Advanced Ice Axe Techniques
Front-Pointing Technique
The front-pointing technique is an advanced ice climbing technique that requires a high level of skill and experience. This technique involves using the front points of the ice axe to support the climber’s weight while climbing up or down a steep slope.
To perform the front-pointing technique, the climber must first plant the front points of the ice axe into the ice, with the shaft of the axe pointing downhill. The climber then pushes down on the shaft of the axe with their hands, using the front points to support their weight.
This technique is commonly used when climbing steep ice or mixed terrain, as it allows the climber to maintain a secure position and prevent falls. However, it is important to note that the front-pointing technique requires a high level of control and precision, as the climber must be able to accurately place the front points of the axe into the ice.
Ice Climbing Techniques
Ice climbing techniques are a set of advanced skills and techniques used by experienced climbers to ascend steep ice formations. These techniques include a variety of methods for climbing, such as the use of ice screws, crampons, and ice axes.
One of the most common ice climbing techniques is the use of ice screws, which are specialized tools that are placed into the ice to provide support for the climber. These screws are typically made of metal and are designed to be placed into the ice at a specific angle to provide a secure hold for the climber.
Another important technique used in ice climbing is the use of crampons, which are specialized footwear designed for climbing on ice and snow. Crampons provide a secure footing on icy surfaces and help prevent falls.
In addition to these techniques, experienced ice climbers may also use advanced ice axe techniques, such as the front-pointing technique, to ascend steep ice formations. These techniques require a high level of skill and experience, but can provide a secure and efficient means of climbing in difficult conditions.
Ice Axe Safety
Safe Use of Ice Axes
Avoiding Accidents
When using an ice axe, it is important to avoid accidents by following proper techniques and being aware of potential hazards. One way to prevent accidents is to always wear a helmet when climbing or hiking in snowy or icy conditions. It is also important to pay attention to the terrain and watch for signs of instability, such as loose snow or ice, and to avoid steep or unstable slopes.
Safe Techniques
To use an ice axe safely, it is important to know how to properly carry and handle it. The ice axe should be held with the shaft vertical and the pick facing up, and it should be kept close to the body with the head resting on the shoulder. When using the ice axe for support, it should be plunged into the snow or ice and held with one hand while the other hand grasps the shaft. When traversing steep slopes, it is important to use the ice axe to anchor oneself to the snow or ice and to avoid leaning on it too heavily.
Emergency Self-Rescue Techniques
In the event of a fall or other emergency, it is important to know how to use the ice axe to self-rescue. One technique is to use the pick to self-arrest, or to stop a fall, by plunging it into the snow or ice and using it to brake the fall. Another technique is to use the shaft to create a handhold or foothold, and to use it to pull oneself up or out of a situation. It is important to practice these techniques before using them in real-life situations, and to always be aware of the potential for accidents and to take appropriate precautions.
Caring for Your Ice Axe
Maintaining Your Ice Axe
Cleaning and Drying Your Ice Axe
After each use, it is important to clean and dry your ice axe thoroughly. This will help prevent rust and corrosion, and ensure that your ice axe is ready for its next use.
To clean your ice axe, start by removing any snow or debris from the shaft and head. You can use a soft brush or cloth to gently remove any dirt or grime. If there is any ice or frost on the axe, you can use a warm cloth to help melt it.
Once the ice axe is clean, you should thoroughly dry it. Use a clean cloth or paper towels to wipe away any moisture. If there is any moisture in the head or shaft, you can use a hairdryer on a cool setting to help speed up the drying process.
Lubricating Your Ice Axe
Lubricating your ice axe is important for ensuring smooth and easy movement. This is especially important for the swivel or pivot point, which can become stiff over time if not properly lubricated.
To lubricate your ice axe, start by applying a small amount of lubricant to a cloth or paper towel. Gently insert the towel into the swivel or pivot point, and twist it back and forth to distribute the lubricant evenly. Be sure to avoid getting lubricant on any other parts of the ice axe, as this can attract dirt and debris.
Storing Your Ice Axe
Proper storage is crucial for the longevity of your ice axe. You should always store your ice axe in a dry, cool place, away from direct sunlight and moisture. If possible, it is best to store your ice axe in a protective case or sheath.
When storing your ice axe, be sure to clean and dry it thoroughly beforehand. You should also ensure that the head and shaft are tightly secured to prevent any damage or injury. Finally, you should check the tightness of the handle and ferrule regularly to ensure that they remain secure.
Ice Axe Brands and Models
Popular Ice Axe Brands
Black Diamond
Black Diamond is a well-known brand in the world of climbing and mountaineering equipment. They offer a wide range of ice axes, each designed to meet the specific needs of different climbers. Black Diamond’s ice axes are known for their durability, performance, and innovative design. Their flagship models include the Black Diamond Raven, the Black Diamond Pilot, and the Black Diamond Neptune. Each of these models features unique design elements that make them ideal for different types of climbing and ice climbing.
Petzl
Petzl is another popular brand in the world of climbing and mountaineering equipment. They offer a range of ice axes that are designed to provide maximum performance and safety for climbers. Petzl’s ice axes are known for their innovative design, high-quality materials, and excellent durability. Some of their most popular models include the Petzl Sum’Tec, the Petzl Quark, and the Petzl Naglo. Each of these models is designed to meet the specific needs of different types of climbers, from beginners to experts.
Grivel
Grivel is a well-respected brand in the world of mountaineering and climbing equipment. They offer a range of ice axes that are designed to provide maximum performance and safety for climbers. Grivel’s ice axes are known for their high-quality materials, innovative design, and excellent durability. Some of their most popular models include the Grivel G12, the Grivel Air Tech, and the Grivel Io. Each of these models is designed to meet the specific needs of different types of climbers, from those who are new to the sport to experienced alpinists.
Popular Ice Axe Models
Black Diamond Raven
The Black Diamond Raven is a popular ice axe model known for its versatility and durability. It features a robust steel head and a comfortable handle, making it suitable for both ice climbing and technical mountaineering. The Raven also has an adjustable leash and a pick that can be replaced or adjusted for different terrain.
Petzl Summit Ice Axe
The Petzl Summit Ice Axe is another highly regarded model in the world of ice climbing. It is designed with a lightweight aluminum shaft and a steel head, making it easy to handle and maneuver. The Summit also has a unique hammering pick that allows for easier ice penetration and better support when hammering in pitons.
Grivel G12
The Grivel G12 is a well-known ice axe model that is trusted by many climbers. It features a lightweight aluminum shaft and a strong steel head, providing a balance of strength and weight. The G12 also has a comfortable handle and a pick that can be easily replaced or adjusted for different conditions. Additionally, it has a built-in hand rest, which provides added security when climbing steep terrain.
Ice Axe Accessories
Essential Ice Axe Accessories
Carabiners
Carabiners are a crucial component of an ice axe setup. They are used to connect the user to the ice axe via a lanyard, and they serve as a point of attachment for other climbing equipment such as ascenders, descenders, and belay devices. When selecting carabiners for ice climbing, it is important to choose those that are lightweight, strong, and easy to manipulate with gloved hands. Differential locking carabiners are a popular choice for ice climbing due to their ability to lock securely in one direction while allowing smooth manipulation in the other direction.
Ice Screws
Ice screws are specialized pitons that are designed to be placed in ice and snow for protection in alpine and ice climbing. They are typically longer and thicker than rock climbing pitons, and they are designed to be placed in the frozen layer of snow and ice that forms on steep terrain. Ice screws are available in a variety of lengths and diameters, and they can be used in a range of different placement techniques depending on the type of ice and the angle of the terrain.
Ice Axe Leashes
Ice axe leashes are a safety feature that attaches the ice axe to the user, preventing it from being lost if it is dropped or knocked out of the user’s hand. Leashes are typically made of strong, lightweight material such as nylon or polyester, and they are attached to the ice axe using a loop or clip. The other end of the leash is typically attached to the user’s harness or jacket using a carabiner or clip. Ice axe leashes are particularly useful in steep or difficult terrain where it may be difficult to retrieve a lost ice axe.
Advanced Ice Axe Accessories
For the experienced ice climber, there are a variety of advanced ice axe accessories available to enhance their climbing experience. These accessories include ice axe tools and avalanche rescue tools.
Ice Axe Tools
Ice axe tools are designed to assist climbers with specific tasks while climbing. Some of the most common ice axe tools include:
- Adze: An adze is a curved blade on the back of the ice axe that is used for chopping steps and digging into the ice.
- Pick: A pick is a sharp, pointed tool on the head of the ice axe that is used for anchoring in ice and for self-arrest.
- Hammer: A hammer is a tool on the back of the ice axe that is used for breaking and removing ice.
Avalanche Rescue Tools
Avalanche rescue tools are designed to help climbers in the event of an avalanche. These tools include:
- Avalanche beacon: An avalanche beacon is a device that sends and receives signals to help locate a buried person in an avalanche.
- Avalanche probe: An avalanche probe is a long, thin rod that is used to locate a buried person in an avalanche.
- Avalanche shovel: An avalanche shovel is a specialized shovel designed for digging out a buried person in an avalanche.
These advanced ice axe accessories are essential for experienced climbers who venture into more challenging and dangerous terrain. They provide an added layer of safety and security for those who climb in the mountains.
Ice Axe Tips and Tricks
Efficient Ice Axe Use
Efficient Techniques
Efficient use of an ice axe is crucial for both safety and success during ice climbing and glacier travel. Here are some efficient techniques to consider:
- Proper Grip: A firm and comfortable grip on the ice axe is essential. The most common grip is the “hammer grip,” where the hand is placed on the handle and the fingers wrap around it.
- Bracing: When stopping to rest or to belay, the ice axe should be placed in the snow to provide support. To do this, extend the arm and place the ice axe into the snow, using the pick to anchor it. The other hand can then be used to hold the rope.
- Self-Arrest: In the event of a fall, the ice axe can be used to stop the climber. To perform a self-arrest, the ice axe should be placed vertically in the snow, with the pick pointing up and the adze pointing down. The climber should then use their body weight to push the adze into the snow, creating a brake.
Tips for Climbing
- Kicking Steps: When climbing, the ice axe can be used to “kick” steps in the ice. To do this, the ice axe is placed behind the foot and used to chip away at the ice, creating a step.
- Blade Usage: The blade of the ice axe can be used for kicking steps, but it should also be used for cutting through soft snow and ice.
- Using the Pick: The pick of the ice axe is primarily used for self-arrest and for kicking steps in hard ice.
Tips for Glacier Travel
- Hiking: When hiking on a glacier, the ice axe can be used to balance and support the climber.
- Traversing: When traversing across a glacier, the ice axe can be used to anchor the climber and provide support.
- Crevasse Rescue: In the event of a crevasse fall, the ice axe can be used to perform a self-arrest and to create an anchor for the rope.
In conclusion, efficient use of an ice axe is crucial for both safety and success during ice climbing and glacier travel. Proper grip, bracing, self-arrest, kicking steps, blade usage, using the pick, hiking, traversing, and crevasse rescue are all techniques to consider when using an ice axe.
Advanced Tips and Tricks
When it comes to using ice axes, there are many advanced techniques and tips that can help improve your skills and keep you safe while climbing or traveling on glaciers. Here are some advanced tips and tricks to consider:
Advanced Techniques
- One advanced technique is the “ice screw placement” method, which involves using ice screws to secure your position while climbing. This method requires precision and accuracy, so it’s important to practice and understand the proper techniques for placing ice screws.
- Another advanced technique is the “self-arrest” method, which involves using your ice axe to stop a fall. This technique requires a certain level of skill and practice, but it can be a life-saving tool in the event of a fall.
Advanced Tips for Climbing
- When climbing, it’s important to keep your ice axe in the correct position. One advanced tip is to keep your ice axe in front of you, with the pick facing down and the shaft pointing up. This position allows for better balance and control while climbing.
- Another advanced tip for climbing is to use the “plow” technique, which involves using the pick of your ice axe to dig into the ice and create a stable platform for your feet. This technique requires practice and precision, but it can help improve your climbing skills and increase your safety.
Advanced Tips for Glacier Travel
- When traveling on glaciers, it’s important to use your ice axe for balance and support. One advanced tip is to use the “ice axe belay” technique, which involves using your ice axe to anchor yourself to the glacier while your partner climbs. This technique requires practice and precision, but it can help increase your safety while traveling on glaciers.
- Another advanced tip for glacier travel is to use the “ice axe arrest” technique, which involves using your ice axe to stop a fall. This technique requires a certain level of skill and practice, but it can be a life-saving tool in the event of a fall.
FAQs
1. What is an ice axe?
An ice axe is a specialized tool used for various activities in mountainous terrain, particularly in ice climbing and mountaineering. It consists of a head, shaft, and handle, designed to provide support, stability, and safety when navigating icy or snowy environments.
2. What are the different types of ice axes?
There are two main types of ice axes: single and double. Single ice axes are primarily used for climbing and have a spike at one end for self-arrest, while double ice axes have two prongs or spikes, which are useful for various climbing techniques, such as using them as a third point of contact during ascending or for balance during descents.
3. What is the difference between a mountaineering ice axe and a technical ice axe?
A mountaineering ice axe is designed for general mountaineering and winter hiking, while a technical ice axe is specifically designed for more challenging ice climbs. Technical ice axes have a more pronounced pick at the head, which provides better purchase on hard ice, and are generally lighter and more ergonomic for more technical climbs.
4. How do I choose the right ice axe for me?
Choosing the right ice axe depends on your specific needs and experience level. If you’re new to ice climbing or mountaineering, a general-purpose mountaineering ice axe will suffice. However, if you plan to tackle more technical climbs, you may want to invest in a technical ice axe. It’s essential to consider factors such as the type of terrain you’ll be traversing, your experience level, and your personal preferences when selecting an ice axe.
5. How do I use an ice axe for self-arrest?
Self-arrest is the technique of using an ice axe to stop a fall. To perform a self-arrest with an ice axe, first, place the pick of the axe into the snow or ice, ensuring it is upright and secure. Next, place your uphill hand on the shaft, with your fingers on the opposite side of the handle, and hold the head of the axe with your downhill hand. Swing the axe’s head downward, driving it into the snow or ice to create friction and stop your descent. Practice this technique in a controlled environment before attempting it in real-life situations.
6. How do I carry an ice axe while hiking?
When carrying an ice axe while hiking, it’s important to keep it securely attached to your pack to prevent accidental loss or injury. Most ice axes come with a retractable leash that can be clipped to your pack. Ensure the leash is not too long, as it can get caught on vegetation or other obstacles. Alternatively, you can carry the axe in a protective case or on a dedicated holder on your pack.
7. Can I use an ice axe for regular hiking?
Yes, you can use an ice axe for regular hiking, especially in snowy or icy conditions. However, a regular hiking pole may be more suitable for most hiking scenarios, as they are lighter and more compact. Ice axes are designed for more demanding conditions and are typically heavier and bulkier than hiking poles.
